It’s my hometown and it fills my heart with happiness – Looe is such a lovely seaside resort. If you’re looking for boujie coffee shops and extravagant art galleries, look away now, but if you want to indulge in the very essence of the classic British seaside, then Looe has a whole lot to offer. There are foodie gems to discover, fun for the whole family, and seriously scenic harbour views. Here are ten things not to miss on a trip to this often underrated Cornish resort.
Grab a pasty
Looe is home to some of Cornwall’s best pasties– thanks to Sarah’s, a dinky little bakery where the delicious treats are handmade daily. There’s a good chance you’ll see the team in action, filling and crimping their delicious traditional and flavoured varieties, thanks to the open kitchen. Don’t be put off if you find a queue snaking around the corner of the building, service is fast and friendly, and the pasties are well worth the wait. I also have a real soft spot for many of the comfort food combos on offer in pasty form down the road from Sarah’s at the Cornish Bakery – purists may consider bacon, leek & cheese or chicken masala a pasty abomination, but if you’re looking to try something different, there’s lots of choices here – even apple, rhubarb and custard pasties.
Play at the arcades
Is there anything more nostalgic than a British seaside arcade? The neon glow and jingling tunes, the sound of falling coins – it’s hard not to feel childlike as you step inside. Looe’s large Riverside Amusements is hard to miss, you’ll likely find yourself walking through it if you park in the town’s biggest carpark (The Milpool). It has all the classics – 2p & 10p coin pushers, claw machines stuffed with soft toys, VR games, and an over-18s section for slot machines. It’s also, so-far, avoided something I really dislike – the increasingly common system where you win reams of paper tickets to exchange for (mostly rubbish!) prizes. Here, it’s old-fashioned coins jangling into the metal trays and the little plastic pots to fill up from the change machines. There’s also a second, smaller arcade ticked away right in the centre of Looe on the quayside. Purely anecdotal, but we’ve always won lots more in this little arcade and it’s my little girls’ favourite.
Hit the beach
Looe’s beach isn’t, at first glance, one of Cornwall’s most beautiful – but I will argue its case as one of Cornwall’s best. It’s sheltered, so generally very calm for paddling and playing on the shore, it’s punctuated by Banjo Pier which is a lovely little spot for a blustery walk and photo opp. It’s served by lots of food and drink spots, including the unpretentious but bloody good Pier Café which makes a really good coffee and hot, fresh chips. And, I suppose if I really think about it, it’s everything I love about Looe. It’s not trying to be glamorous or high-end, it’s fun, friendly, (more) affordable and accessible than lots of Cornwall, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Dine like a local
An unassuming hidden gem, I love this restaurant so much it makes my top ten in the whole of Cornwall. You could easily walk past this tiny little spot in the heart of Looe without ever noticing it but open the door and step down into its warm and welcoming little dining room of an evening and you’ll find it fizzing with activity. It may be an Italian restaurant, but if you are looking for an example of where Cornish people go and eat local fish and seafood, Papa Nino’s is a great start. Portions are generous, the fish is fresh and local, wine flows and the service is personal and friendly. Enjoy dishes like Spaghetti served with locally caught fresh scallops in a creamy tomato sauce and locally caught, whole Dover Sole, grilled with butter, washed down with a large glass (or two) of wine in this cosy little haven, and escape the real world for a few hours.
Feast on fish & chips
An unassuming hidden gem, I love this restaurant so much it makes my top ten in the whole of Cornwall. You could easily walk past this tiny little spot in the heart of Looe without ever noticing it but open the door and step down into its warm and welcoming little dining room of an evening and you’ll find it fizzing with activity. It may be an Italian restaurant, but if you are looking for an example of where Cornish people go and eat local fish and seafood, Papa Nino’s is a great start. Portions are generous, the fish is fresh and local, wine flows and the service is personal and friendly. Enjoy dishes like Spaghetti served with locally caught fresh scallops in a creamy tomato sauce and locally caught, whole Dover Sole, grilled with butter, washed down with a large glass (or two) of wine in this cosy little haven, and escape the real world for a few hours.
Catch crabs
The most fun you can have with a bucket, some seriously aromatic ‘bait’ and a reel of string (adorned with a totally child-unfriendly hook) – crab fishing is a classic Looe pastime. You can pick up all the paraphernalia, including lots of eco-friendly alternatives to the bright plastic offerings of my childhood, from any of the beachy souvenir shops throughout the town. Pick your spot on the harbour and see how many little clackety crabs you can pluck from the water a pop into your bucket. Just make sure to look after them with some seawater and shade and pop them back where you found them once you’re done.
Savour a spectacular view
For an escape from the hustle and bustle, make a climb up the hill behind Looe beach and you’ll find a secret (to tourists) viewpoint called The Wooldown. The panorama of Looe, Looe Island and a horizon-spanning stretch of deep blue Cornish ocean is the perfect soul-cleanser. Breathe in the sea air, contemplate the meaning of life, feast your eyes on the beauty of this enchanting Cornish corner and everything feels a little bit better by the time you leave.
Hop on the ferry
A micro-tip really, but worth sharing. When the tide is in and the beautiful harbour is full, a traditional wooden foot ferry nips passengers between East and West Looe for a couple of pounds. It’s a short scenic journey across the quay but worth taking the time to do, especially with children.
Take a glass bottom boat tour
For a more substantial boat ride, take a trip on a glass-bottom boat. Look for sea life, spot seals and learn about Looe Island’s fascinating history (ask about Jesus’ trip there), as you sail around the bay and loop past the flora, fauna and birdlife of the Cornish coast. My eight-year-old is adamant she saw a mermaid last time we made this trip, so keep your eyes peeled, Cornwall is a land of myth and legend after all. And ten points to everyone who spots the statue dedicated to Nelson, the one-eyed seal that called Looe’s waters home for more than twenty years as you return to the harbour after a forty-five-minute voyage sure to delight guests of all ages.
Discover Hannafore
I love Hannafore, whatever the weather. It’s a steep walk, or drive, up the hill from West Looe, and it’s got a few big old hotels, tennis courts, ice cream kiosks and not much else besides a great swathe of pebbly beach. It’s a great spot to slow down and appreciate the natural treasures of the coastline, with endless rockpools to investigate, and fabulous views across to Looe Island. It’s also a good spot to pick up the South West Coast Path for a walk with breathtaking sea views. It’s one of my favourite places to weather watch, the wilder the better – tucked safely in the car, rain battering the roof, fish and chips warm in your lap, bliss.
